A Very Good Boron Video

There was a comment stuck in “spam” for no reason I could see, so I clicked the link in it to a video, and while watching, moved the comment back to the regular queue and approved it. Well, it had been ‘stuck’ long enough it is several days back in the comment queue and I can’t find it again (well, could find it given enough hours). So if you are the poster, please take a bow for your h/t!

This is a rather dramatic video about the use of Boron in arthritis and other metabolic issues. Among the interesting bits, are the specific identification of the Boron transporter (and it is dedicated to boron, so pretty much proves it is essential).

The major thrust is that it strongly improves bone health, reduces arthritis, and has many other benefits including on teeth. Lack of boron leads to lack of bone growth and tooth loss. Calcium loss in urine is reduced with boron+magnesium. Reduced calcium means less tendency to form kidney stones. There is also an inverse relationship between Boron and prostate cancer, per the presenter. Boron is also important to the hydroxylation of steroids, including making Vitamin D and Testosterone more active, and also transforms Estrogen into a form that is more helpful and less prone to breast cancer promotion. By Jorge D. Flechas M.D. M.P.H.

Also note that there are links in tips here: h/t Sabertoothed to more Boron information.

It is sure looking like Boron deficiency is a big deal, especially in those places with poor soil and dietary boron content.

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About E.M.Smith

A technical managerial sort interested in things from Stonehenge to computer science. My present "hot buttons' are the mythology of Climate Change and ancient metrology; but things change...
This entry was posted in Biology Biochem, Food, Human Interest, Science Bits. Bookmark the permalink.

26 Responses to A Very Good Boron Video

  1. sabretoothed says:


    Some more info on Boron. I think it must be raising the DHT too



    Also people are just taking Vit D, but you need to activate it.

    To make the Magnesium to work better, you need Boron, p5p, Taurine and Zinc

  2. sabretoothed says:

    The other thing I think is the iodine phobia is maybe silly

    It seems like the minerals which are most ignored are maybe most important

    Iodine, Boron and also Choline (the latter makes the brain and gall bladder work better). Which doctor ever tests these? Choline, does a test exist?

    In Turkey there is evidence of up to 30mg in tap water. It’s interesting that most of the religions came from high Boron areas and also high testosterone war areas who used to invade europe, having boron in the soil and water could lead to more Testosterone?



    Before the Wolf effects arrived, 100mg Iodine like Iodoral was common place.

    ‘Not by any means do I consider such a condition of iodism as an unfortunate event, for it is only a passing stage, and if larger doses are given, it may disappear altogether. Indeed, in such cases as I have noted recently, in which large doses of iodides had been given on account of previous syphilitic infection, a marked state of well being can be produced for a certain period of time, with an increase of muscular strength.

    Long walks and climbing in the mountains became possible without the subsequent feeling of great fatigue. Likewise the sexual desire reappeared, sometimes even in a higher degree than before the treatment. These persons, furthermore, began to look younger than their age, and in general became decidedly more vigorous…”‘


  3. sabretoothed says:

    And the same Video author, Fibro is just low iodine in the muscles, low iodine stuffs the architecture of the tissues, you see polycystic ovaries, breasts with lumps, and in the muscles the same thing happens and you get Fibro…

    “Whole Body Iodine Sufficiency
    The human body can hold up to a total of 1500mg of iodine. Of this amount, the thyroid gland holds up to 50mg. Twenty percent of total body iodine sits in the skin, 32 percent is in the muscles, and 35 percent is in the fat. Iodine supports many bodily functions other than being carried around by thyroid hormone. In the current medical literature there is much debate on iodine and autoimmune problems. This topic warrants further discussion with a look at the broader role of iodine for total body health.”

  4. Iodine deficiency is well known in Australia, particularly Tasmania where it was picked up with high problems of the thyroid gland compared to anywhere else in the world. In Tasmania bread has added iodine through legislation. Elsewhere, one can buy iodised salt, which we do, at no extra cost. I can not remember reading anywhere about a debate around iodine. There ws a bit of debate about adding fluoride to water but most waters now have added fluoride and opposition has died down while the evidence to reduced tooth decay and mouth health is overwhelming. Dentists are now advertising for clients mainly looks, cleaning, and fitting of mouth guards for sporty types

  5. Gail Combs says:

    Gee, nice to know NC has ZERO boron. (Ashville NC is in the mountains so the peidmont is likely the same esp given our rainfall.)

    Some other info on boron:



    Boron and Animals

    Animals with arthritis are usually cured with Boron. As with humans the level of boron in the soil relates to the degree of arthritis in animals e.g. a high proportion of sheep with arthritis, indicate that the pasture land is deficient in Boron. Dogs and Horses are among the animals with arthritis that have been found to benefit from supplemental boron.

    I notice a high level of arthritis in my animals. The guy across the street has a lightly ridden haflinger in his teens that is lame. It looks like degeneration/arthritis of the knee joint in both front legs. He buys hay from up the street and locally manufactured grain.

    Unfortunately none of the supplements I have in house include boron with the possible exception of the pelleted alfalfa/timothy hay stretcher and beet pulp if the processing has not washed all the boron out.

  6. Gail Combs says:

    I do have 20 mule team borax so I wanted to check that out and found this interesting article:

    (It includes a long list or references.)

    Now I just have to find out how much to sprinkle on my manure pile. {:>D

    One suggestion from the PermacultureNews commenters is to get a “geochemical assay” instead of just a soil test since it looks at the micro-nutrients and not just NPK and pH. Rylan also said “Boron is responsible for managing nutrient flow within the vascular system of the plant, and deficiencies will be different from crop to crop. Here is a good article on boron deficiencies as they relate to certain crops:” http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/as…864/boron-deficiency-pastures-field-crops.pdf .

    A commenter at another site, Around The Yard says “NOT putting down Potassium at the same time as Boron. There is an antagonistic reaction.”


    One commenter suggested:

    Re: Adding Potassium and Boron to soil

    One way of adding minerals that won’t leach too quickly is by creating a humate. So, for your boron, add the boron salt to some fulvic and/or humic acid. The former stimulates bacterial growth and the latter stimulates fungal growth. You can buy these quite cheaply in dry granule form but they’re not what would be called ‘sustainable’ products as they are made from Chinese brown coal. You can make your own by dumping some good compost into a bucket, adding some water, swish it around vigorously, like you were making the biodynamic preparation 500, filter out the particulate matter, add borax and with any luck, you’ll have a boron humate, or a humate of whatever mineral you choose. The advantage of mineral humates is that they a) don’t leach too quickly, especially in clay soils, and b) they’re in a more plant friendly form.

    Magnesium Sulphate can be added via Epsom salts BTW.

    Another comment from http://permaculturenews.org/forums/index.php?threads/anyone-add-boron-to-their-soil.14540/

    Boron amounts present in the soil are directly proportional to the amount of organic matter.
    If your boron is low then you can be fairly certain you have low organic matter as well. [Mine was none existent NO topsoil left.]

    The first thing to address is the organic matter level, once that is up some you can add boron by using
    household borax (like 20 mule team brand).
    Apply household borax at a rate 1 tablespoon borax to 12 quarts of water.
    This amount will treat a 100 foot row of vegetables or 10 square feet of soil. Apply two times 2-3 weeks apart.

    It isn’t uncommon for soil testing labs to discount many of the trace elements as not important, however they forget the vital role these trace elements play in overall soil health. Borax is cheap, easy to apply and worth the effort, but I would apply it only where I needed it.
    Mostly because it would be time consuming to treat a lot of land.

    Around The Yard

    Re: Boron deficient?

    Postby andy10917 » June 12th, 2012, 9:24 pm

    Andy, do you recommend taking steps to add Boron with current levels at .41 or should I not bother?

    Boron is the trickiest of all of the micronutrients that I advise people to use. And I do advise tackling a 0.41 PPM test result for this reason – you wouldn’t be on BL if you wanted an OK lawn. And since the thresholds between deficiency and optimal and toxic are so narrow, it takes time and patience to get the levels where you want them. From 0.41 to an optimal 1.0 PPM is probably two years of applications (one per year). I take it slowly so that you don’t wind up with a toxic zone at the top of the soil because you were in a hurry to do it all in one shot.

    So, long story short, start now to get that level where it should be two years from now. It’s cheap as can be and will mean that your fertilizer applications bring out all that your lawn is capable of.

    He also says:

    No, for several reasons. One is the speed at which dolomitic lime from big-box stores works. It would lose a race with a snail. The second is that even though dolomitic has much more Magnesium, it is still predominantly Calcium — which you don’t need. Calcium is also the preferred cation in the soil, which means it’s going to displace Potassium – which is where you should be paying your attention.

    One of the biggest mistakes a person getting involved in soil management makes as a rookie is to fret and worry about the pH. Stop! Don’t do that! Pushing the pH up with random or incorrect items makes managing the soil 10X harder, because it is impossible to remove an item once it’s in the soil. Paste the following on your refrigerator and repeat it until you recite it in your sleep:


    Instead of paying attention to pH, get these four cations in the proper amounts and ratios to each other and the pH will automatically find the perfect level for your soil: Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium and Sodium. It’s guaranteed. In case you think that is too hard – don’t worry — they figure it out for you. It’s called the Base Saturation numbers.

    (I recommend wood ash from a fireplace/stove where NOTHING but wood is burned. (Some people toss trash in their wood stoves.)

    Many of the strict organic types just say to add various stuff (bought from the store) to the compost heap but from the video unless the stuff is from a place with a good level of Boron to start with, you are not going to be adding boron to your garden this esp true for locovoires.

  7. E.M.Smith says:


    I bought a lage box of Boraxo washing powder a couple of years ago. (Borax heptahydrate IIRC) I occasionally moisten the tip of a finger and lightly touch the surface of the powder, then lick it off. I once calculated that was about a large daily weekly dose for me. Don’t know how much to add to hay or the water trough, but it ought not be hard to calculate. Let me know if you want if calculated. (Basically, boron mass per borax mass ratio gives the mass uplift for the daily allowance of B per kg, then times kg, then how much water to drink as diluent. Borax is a hydrated molecule and B is light so you get that fingertip layer size… toxic dose up near an ounce or two, so lots of headroom for safty. IIRC, I calculated a saturated solution of borax as stock, had a 1/4 tsp per Gallon water jug in the fridge…so a couple of days worth.

  8. E.M.Smith says:

    Here: https://chiefio.wordpress.com/2012/08/28/boron/

    Has the damp pimky as a weekly dose (so that’s why I was doing it about once a week) and the toxic dose for my mass at about 1/2 cup…. so similar to table salt…

  9. E.M.Smith says:

    MSDS http://www.anvilfire.com/21centbs/material/33850-usborax-borax.pdf

    LD50 oral rat about 5 g / kg, so 500 g for me (assuming I’m a rat :-)

    The stuff is remarkably benign, but a couple of grams can give an upset tummy…

  10. Gail Combs says:

    Thanks E.M.
    Normally I just figure a human is ~150 lbs and calculate the dose for various size animals from there unless the merck vet manual says different.
    1 human = 1 sheep = 1 goat =1/2 small pony = 1/4 large pony = 1/6 horse or their about.

  11. E.M.Smith says:

    Found the stock bottle, 10 ml marked on it. It is saturated when cold, not when hot, so mixed at room temp. Was adding 10 ml to a gallon jug of water, then drink over a week or two. That was for both spouse and me. IIRC, it was 2.5 ml / person – week of saturated solution.

    Probably ought to recalculate it and be more precise on drink volume per day per 50 kg / 100 lbs.

  12. cdquarles says:

    Reducing calcium loss only helps reduce calcium containing kidney stones. Since there are other kinds of stones, that’s why the good specialists have elemental analytical screening and specific compound analyses performed, if possible. My stones are sulfasalazine related and a price I was willing to pay, having ulcerative colitis for two decades now (diagnosis made December 1997).

  13. Oxalate has a strong affinity for calcium in the system. I know – I’ve had multiple kidney stones due to hyperoxaluria (one being 1 of 3 10’s on the pain scale in my life).

    Probiotics are very important to help with keeping oxalates out of the system…

  14. E.M.Smith says:


    Spouse had oxalate stones too… so we’re on that “no spinach and no…” diet as well… though I sneak my spinach when she’s not around ;-)


    Yup, several stone types. BTW, there’s a link for some people between ulcerative colites and wheat… you might want to try gluten free for 2 weeks and see if it matters to you.


    One friend with a non-specific colitis was helped greatly by gluten free…

  15. I can’t give up peanuts…they are one of the important food groups. So I keep any peanut sessions isolated as much as possible from any calcium intake, and try to keep the right glut flora.

    I read about a tailored probiotic for hyperoxaluria in field tests years ago…time to see if it’s out.

  16. E.M.Smith says:

    Um I said “gluten” and you answered “goober”… hopefully just talking past each other?…

    I’m talking no wheat / rye / barley for a 2 week period… all the peanuts you want…

  17. Regis Llanfar says:

    Pretty sure I’m not cdqualres ;) Got the goober reference though.

    Haven’t (yet) found the link for that engineered bacterium, but did find a link (at the office) that mentions that sulfur and magnesium were beneficial for hyperoxaluria…that the oxalic acid would preferentially bind to magnesium over calcium…

  18. Regis Llanfar says:

    Emailed it to myself… Options with Oxylate Intolerances

  19. Gail Combs says:

    Regis Llanfar

    HMMmm the supplement I take for bone health is Calcium, Magnesium and Zinc.

    For what it is worth there has been an on going war about feeding alfalfa hay to horses. (It is great for cows but not good as a sole feed for horses IMHO.) Since alfalfa will give you a nice fat horse, farms, esp racing stables and high end show barns were stuffing their babies with alfalfa only to find they had bone deformation as a result. The reason is the Calcium Phosphorus Ratio in the Equine Diet

    Notice the problem is THE RATIO.


    …The term came out of a blue ribbon panel sponsored by the American Quarter Horse Association.

    “It is a term that encompasses all general growth disturbances of horses and is therefore nonspecific,” says McIlwraith. “It is felt that one has to be nonspecific when talking about the various limb anomalies of young horses because previous terms such as metabolic bone disease and osteochondrosis implied that they all had a common cause and pathogenesis (mechanism of disease development). It is still to be determined how closely related the various forms of DOD may be, but it is important that the term not be used synonymously with osteochondrosis.”

    Fodder For Thought

    And what, the horseman might ask, can bring on a bout of epiphysitis?

    Often, it begins with diet, although other factors can be involved. In many cases, the afflicted horses are fast-growing youngsters on a high-energy diet. Immediately, that brings on visions of a diet heavily laden with grain. In many instances, that is true, but less ambitious diets also can be implicated.

    A case in point involves a weanling six months of age which recently was treated by Glen and Gunda Gamble, DVM, of Riverton, Wyo. The weanling was being fed exceptionally lush, green alfalfa hay as the main ingredient in its diet, and it was growing rapidly. The horse developed a severe case of epiphysitis at the distal surface of the radius. Also involved was a physeal fracture.

    A radical change in diet, treatment of the fracture, plus rest, brought about a pronounced improvement in three weeks….

    Causes of Equine Lameness
    Submitted by EquiMed Staff

    …Generally, research shows that the most common feeding practices responsible for nutritional imbalances leading to lameness include:

    * Feeding too much grain
    * Feeding alfalfa hay without adding phosphorus to the ration
    * Feeding a grass hay and grain mix inadequate in calcium, phosphorus, and protein.
    * Adding excess vitamins and minerals to the ration

    This is why my sensitivity to diet started many decades ago. If we can really mess up a horse by how they are fed, what about humans?

  20. p.g.sharrow says:

    @Gail; Probably one of the most valuable classes I attended in high school was the agricultural ones on feed & feeding. Creating balanced rations for various farm species gave me a good Idea on feeding myself. A modern American diet is not the best thing for a human body If you want it to function well for 4 score and 10.

    In the old Army manual on the care of calvary horses. Alfalfa was only used on campaigns where the horses were expendable. At post they were feed grass hay and enough grain to keep them in good flesh but not fat. GOD made horses to be grass feeders. Alfalfa and such was a tasty and rare bit of browse. On the ranch we fed the poorest weedy, grassy hay to the horses and the best alfalfa hay generally was sold to citified horse people…pg

  21. Gail Combs says:

    p.g. Agreed
    I do not even bother to fertilize my fields much since I have ponies not race and show horses. My vet, when she first came to the farm, remarked that it was so nice to see a bunch of ponies in good flesh but not obese.

    (The people posting those pics were complaining about fat ponies winning in shows. (Fat hides a lot of conformation defects.)

    I rather see a few ribs than rolls of fat. (a 4.5 score) Equines were designed to be ribby at the end of a long winter so it is less of a problem for them. The animal rights types go ballistic over a rib showing of course but completely ignore the unhealthy heart shaped butt.

    Only my old guys get an addition of timothy/alfalfa hay pellets as they head for their thirties and the teeth start to go bad since I hate the equine ‘complete feed’ I still prefer soaked beet pulp but it is such a mess I generally feed it only in winter with lots of loose mineral salt to prevent impaction when I switch from graze to Bermuda hay.

  22. E.M.Smith says:


    For Rabbits, the admonishment is to ALWAYS keep straw / grass available but to serve alfalfa sparingly as a meal. Timothy hay OK regularly. The “pellets” have high alfalfa content, but seem OK (but have a lot of other stuff in them too…). My bunnies just LOVED fresh bean leaves and at “garden harvest time” would hang out at my feet asking for bean leaves and wondering why I picked those horrid pod things for me ;-) (FWIW, tried bean leaves as a pot herb and they work OK. A bit light on flavor, but nice. The bunnies also advised eating broccoli leaves and cauliflower leaves, and they were right about them, too… there’s a LOT of our usual garden vegetables that’s edible and we just toss out…)

    Somehow never thought rabbit rearing would be good for horse skills, but they seem similar in that…

  23. E.M.Smith says:

    Oh, and also interesting that those are the same busy body PITA like folks who berate you if your DOG does NOT show ribs for “overfeeding”…. Perhaps they can issue a Guide To Animal PCness…

  24. It was someone here or a link therefrom (@Gail.) … “I do not accept your appointment as PC commissar”… gonna start using that when a SJW is in the vicinity. Certainly beats what I’ve been saying (though the shock value is priceless – “F**k political correctness with a baby harp seal”).

  25. Jeff says:

    @Gail: Your pic (…/fat-pony.jpg ) makes me think of Hildebeast and “let them eat cake” :)

    This was also really interesting: “Instead of paying attention to pH, get these four cations in the proper amounts and ratios to each other and the pH will automatically find the perfect level for your soil: Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium and Sodium. It’s guaranteed. In case you think that is too hard – don’t worry — they figure it out for you. It’s called the Base Saturation numbers.“

    My son had severe heart issues (WPW), reanimated twice. With all the various infusions he was getting, they were always checking on his electrolytes: CA, NA, Mg, and K. For his heart. Interesting that the same four minerals (amongst others) are so important for plant life as well. (As far as heart research goes, it seems that horses and dogs are the most helpful…).

    Seems that haste makes waste no matter what the field of endeavour is. And I think that those who farm and “ranch” contribute far more than they are either given credit or paid for.

    Finally, when we bought a house in Livermore, CA, on what used to be farmland, in the disclosures was a statement about elevated Boron in the soil. Seems the prior owners of the land had a clue…

    [And yes, we lived just downhill from those dam-ed Altamont bird-choppers…].

  26. sabretoothed says:

    If using Borax, I wonder how much to put in a 40kg dog’s food. A tiny bit on the end of a finger?

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