Yesterday was “car day”. Among other things, I got to carry, roll, install, etc. etc. 5 old big tires on heavy steel rims onto the Banana Boat and remove the 5 smaller tires on lighter aluminum rims now reposing in the garage.
Why? Well, the car came with these SL sized rims, 6 1/2 inch wide, for oversized tires (205 x 70 and larger). There were the ’70s era Steel Rims. The later cars had the “wedding cake” aluminum rims that are much lighter, and generally the car is supposed to run 185 x 75 (no longer available) or 195 x 70 – 14s (also getting more scarce) As the tires on the Aluminum rims get better gas mileage, accelerate faster, and are much newer, I didn’t want them to go off to the mechanic and end up in the “parts car isle” if that be the verdict.
Well, horsing around 10 tires and rims and hand doing the nuts and jack and all, I’ve discovered some sore spots today. I ought not have them, but there they are. I suspect this is natures way of telling me to do more and sit less ;-)
So today is NOT a good day for lots of heavy lifting, as it’s best to put a day of light work between days of Ouchy work… So I decided to contemplate heavy work instead of doing it. Which leads to the roof question. (Bet you were wondering why I had a roof title and was talking about tires ;-)
I’ve done some roofing before. First with my Dad when we roofed a garage, our house, and a rental. Most recently was a shed I built about 25 years ago. Those shingles are still doing fine, thanks! But all those where pretty much over bare sheathing. Looking at my present roof, it’s only one layer, and is fairly flat. It’s mostly just lost the gravel from the shingles. So I’m thinking just do a re-roof over the existing one.
It’s easy to do a re-roof. The starter is a bit different as you need to get in sync with the old shingles, and the new shingles need to be offset sideways so their cuts between tabs don’t line up with the old roof. Then just make sure the nails penetrate the sheathing. (Cap run comes off and a new cap run is put on after the roofing is to the peak).
But where I’m a bit um, pondery, is on the drip edge area. Looks like it takes a special extended length drip edge. Except I don’t have a drip edge. I have gutters. I’m going to replace them, too. Which comes back to a chicken and egg problem.
All the “replace your gutters” sites seem to imply roof is already done and you lift the shingles at the bottom edge to nail some flashing in place. They also tend to imply a facing board on the end of the rafter. Now this is cheap California construction. No worry about ice or ice dams. Very little rain. So my present gutters just have a flange that goes under the shingles a few inches and then they are spiked into the ends of the rafters. I’m not all that keen on this; and it is likely why the last inch or so of the sheathing and rafters look a bit dodgy. Some spots clearly with “issues’, but mostly just ugly pealing paint spots and spikes loosening in some of the rafter ends.
So I’m quasi-stuck on the whole guttering thing.
Do you do the replacement gutters first, then the re-roof? Or just re-roof and retrofit the gutters?
One neighbor had a new roof put on, and the contractor took a skill saw and ripped about 6 inches off the edge of the sheathing and all the rafters all around. Made for a nice clean edge to the wood, but also removed some of the overhang that shades walls from summer sun. I’m also not so sure ripping through established composite shingles would be a good idea… which would put me back in tear-off land, where I was hoping not to be.
I’ve got one spot of about 3 x 4 feet that’s got a leak near the eave, so at least one spot will have a bit of tear off and re-sheathing, but the rest seems fine when inspected (and walked on).
Then there’s this spot where the main roof overlaps the garage roof for about 3 feet. Now how in the heck do you drive a roofing nail into the shingle with a 3 inch clearance to the overhanging eave? I can imagine using a lever to just power it in, but surely there’s a better way?
Then there’s the valley near that spot. It looks like the existing roof just has the shingles overlapping from both sides to make the valley. No metal. I’m assuming it’s OK to just nail a new real metal valley in place and then lay the re-roof over as normal… or ought I just repeat the same shingle-over-shingle at an angle bit? (The “leak” is just at the bottom near the valley, but I tarred the thing last year and that didn’t stop it, so maybe not in the valley but from the water heater vent just up hill from the leak…)
Finally, mostly out of not enjoying the prospect of nailing down 20 square of shingles ( a “square” of roofing is 100 sq. feet or about a 10 x 10 patch, but you need to buy more squares of material due to loss at places where you cut shingles…), even if I buy a nice new nail gun, I was eying this elastomeric roof coating. Nice white thick paint like glop you roll or spray onto a roof. We used that in some of the commercial sites I’ve worked at. The idea of just rolling on a new sealing layer that also gives a much cooler interior during summer (love that light color!) in replacement of the gravel is an attractive option. Except I’ve never used it over shingles (usually over a roll applied material on flat roofs) so I’m not so sure this is a bright idea. Some web searching showed some folks have used it over shingles, but details of limitations and / or issues were slim. But it isn’t particularly cheaper than shingles, and the labor of shingles is not all that high, so I could easily see finding that dealing with 5 gallon buckets of glop and rollers on a sloped roof could be more trouble not less. So advice and / or “Oh My God! WHAT are you thinking!!” solicited ;-)
With that, I’m tossing the discussion open for any advice, war stories, recommendations, etc. etc. about all things roof and gutter.
Sometime before mid November I need to ‘get it done’ as the rains set in after that. One of the advantages of a re-roof is that you can do it in wet weather, so even the light rains we get here are irrelevant to the schedule. The elastomer coating, though, needs 70 F or so to “cure” properly and can’t go on in wet weather. IFF it’s tried, it will need to be “very soon”. Like inside 2 weeks max.
So, about that roof…