GasOne Dual Fuel Stove Review

This is the dual fuel version of the same GasOne stove I descibed in an earlier posting. The only difference is the color of paint and a threaded gas intake for connecting the included propane hose / regulator. Currently running $10 more at $26.88 it is well worth the extra.

I set it up on propane and made my usual 15 oz. Mug of coffee. It took about 1 1/2 minutes. My clock does not display seconds, so a bit of estimation. The box claims 8000 BTU/hr which is about 2350 W and it was about the same time as the 3000W Lixada stove at less than full power but similar flame size.

It burns very evenly and quietly. The large 4 element pot support is easy to use. The fuel knob gives precise and smooth flame control. My impression is that the propane pressure is regulated to a bit less than butane at my warm room temperature.

The regulator cools noticeably in use, consistent with the idea of a pressure drop across it. The hose is very heavy duty.

My only concerns are that the fuel load / unload lever does nothing to propane. You must unscrew the canister. If you don’t then a stray bump of the fuel knob could let your tank slowly drain to empty. Also, having a chunk of hose and a propane tank taking up table space just is. For the ability to use propane too, that’s worth it.

I will likely use it on the butane canisters much of the time, just for ease of setup and table clutter. But for long cooking, like canning runs, swap to cheaper propane. I ran one 90 minute canner load on the other stove using butane and consumed over half a can.

Given the size and weight, not for backpacking, but car camping and patio use. For regular cooking, far more comfortable and familiar than camping stoves. This will be next to my BBQ come summer BBQ season. (My BBQ lacks side burners) This stove works well on tabletops and counters. Not too much surface heating and the flat shape makes a convenient cooking height with no tipping issues.

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About E.M.Smith

A technical managerial sort interested in things from Stonehenge to computer science. My present "hot buttons' are the mythology of Climate Change and ancient metrology; but things change...
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22 Responses to GasOne Dual Fuel Stove Review

  1. Larry Ledwick says:

    Like you I have been collecting bits and pieces so that no matter what fuel is available I have something to use it in. I have recently purchased some full sized propane bottles (still empty sitting in the garage but a 30# and a 20# which in due time I can fill up and have a reserve stock of fuel that keeps pretty near indefinitely. Short of micro leaking I am not aware of any shelf life on propane in sound new bottles.

    A couple years ago I also picked up a small wood stove intended for hot tents (large wall tents with stoves) used for hunting camps, so I can even burn wood or scrap cardboard if need be.

    One of these (without the water tank on the side). It will heat a 12 x 14 tent so I figure it would in a pinch heat my apartment if normal services were not available.

    Right now it is a bit too cold to screw around with stoves on the balcony but come summer time I will get to doing some of the same sort of checking on what works with what you are doing.

  2. E.M.Smith says:

    I have the “advantage” of the house stove dying :-)

    Also being in California, we have a couple of windows open a few inches for fresh air year round..

    I had thought I was semi “set” with a collection of 4 alcohol stoves I really liked, that work well indoors, and with gallons of fuel at any hardware store… But no, California decided to kill off the big fuel supply… So my other big fuel backup is gasoline. One burner, 2 burner, and lantern in hand. But spouse doesn’t like smells….

    I had tried out kerosene, and it is better, but the stoves come in very big wick stoves (cheap, work well, easy) or various “roarers”… from old Primus style to modern MSR multifuel. Noisy, hard to light, fussy. Often expensive. Good for very extended storage. I have one of each kind. I’d only use the wick stove inside for any duration.

    So now I’m back in the land of Propane / Butane / LPG. As you note, it never goes bad. I have seen tanks hold full for decades and still be fine. I had one for abouf 20 years that I finally used up… when I bought the smoker…. about a decade after it could not be filled again as the valves changed. My Florida Friend has a 200 gallon tank, but an AEK & water heater…and doesn’t use the gas pool heater much as he added a solar heater. Last fill up was about 25 years ago and it is still fine.

    So in the next couple of days I need to get my BBQ tank refilled, and maybe trade in that old “wrong valve” tank for a new type since they still do that. Two 20# (5 gallon) tanks run a single burner a very long time…

    I’ve got the adapters to refill the 1# tanks and use them in various stoves, plus 3 of the 1# cans on the shelf. Likely to add a coupke more soon. FWIW, I finally finished off the 20 to 30 year old 14 oz Weller brand tank from the garage… so yeah, it keeps forever…

    I’m pretty well set for the home options. So this last batch is to move the car kits to camp butane. While we’re almost always near home now, not always though, so I need options that work with a partial methanol ban when on the road. It takes a day to reach Arizona from here and a lot of it is boonies farm land. Deprecating the alcohol stoves to tier 2 use especially in California. But smaller than the big propane stoves. (Shrinking the car kit sizes).

    So it goes…

  3. Larry Ledwick says:

    Of course the good news is that once on the road you can probably buy all the denatured alcohol you want once you get into Arizona or Nevada or any of the other not stupid green states.

    K1 Kerosene is getting a bit hard to find, surprisingly you are more likely to find it in unexpected places. It is a stocked item in my nearest Lowes store in the winter time, unfortunately it is now about $38 for 5 gallons.

    By the way word of warning (voice of experience here) biodiesel will not substitute for kerosene like conventional diesel will. It has a bit too high a viscosity to move through the wick and is almost impossible to keep lit. You might be able to stretch Kerosene with a few percent of it but straight it is not workable.

    I wonder if someone makes a wick for the Kerosene heaters designed to work with biodiesel?

    Hmmm off to google I think.

  4. E.M.Smith says:

    Probably would need something lkke a fibreglass wick. Once it startx to clog cotton, the wick startx to carbonize and burn down:

  5. E.M.Smith says:

    I often drive to the Central Valley (family, fishing,…) or down to L.A.

    The problem case is when I’m not headed to Arizona on a reach, but when I’m 200 miles from home and the San Andreas lets rip with an 8.0 or so and drops the overpasses across the freeways.

    Now I’m 10 days hiking from home. Less critical now the kids are grown up, but the spouse depends on me in bad times. As of now, I’m less likely to find methanol at little towns along the way, so fuel carry gets a bump. I think I can get a week out of one camp fuel can, especially if I also have 12 ounces of methanol and a Trangia too.

    At that point, I can most likely make the trek. Either with the flat of bottled water I typically pack for trips, or boiling found water / filtering it with my emergency car kit, and either a 10 day fast or found food along the way. (Lots of little towns and stores along the way.)

    Now I’d expect I can find enough side roads to make the drive work, but that depends on where overpasses drop and can I get off the limited access freeway…

    FWIW, this isn’t hypothetical for me.

    Many years back, at night, I pulled off the freeway a good ways outside Livermore at an Arco station. Needed a nap. About 20 minutes later, the car is hopping up and down. Turns out I’m on top of a 5.6 or so. The overpass about a mile behind me dropped one end a foot or so… and got closed. I was able to drive home when the shaking stopped, but only because I was 21 minutes far enough down the road when I stopped.

    A few years later, at Apple, Loma Prieta happened. I was able to drive home through dark streets with no power or signals but some parts of the Bay Area were impassable. It would have been about a 15 mile hike had my route had a down overpass.

    I’d like to have tea, coffee, soup, and snack bars on that hike… and maybe the ability to sterilize water and warm hands if winter…

    So that’s my planning basis.

    Once out in Arizona and beyond, it shifts to just keeping me comfortable and alive if some crap happens. I don’t plan to walk home from Phoenix… or even Los Angeles.

  6. Larry Ledwick says:

    This will take a bit more research but the issue is one of viscosity, but having a problem finding a ref that states viscosity at same temperatures for each of the fuels of interest.

    1-K Kerosene is about 2.00 centipoise at 65 defg F
    Diesel fuel is about 2.40 at the same temperature
    Biodiesel is about 3.45 at the same temperture

    I found one ref where the guy uses biodiesel but has to break the carbon out of the wick with a hammer ever day or two which is very hard on the wick.

    Mention was made of taking biodiesel and let it stand chilled so that it stratifies and the fraction of glycerine separates out, so they can be drawn off separately.

    Another mentioned that biodiesel can be used to extend Kerosene or diesel if mixed at about 33% before it starts to cause too much carbon and plug up the wick.

    Since viscosity is temperature dependent the issues with biodiesel would be most severe if the fuel was cold, so maybe there is a critical temperature where if the fuel was warm enough it would behave mostly like diesel or kerosene.

    It appears a bit of fuel blending to lower the viscosity might help things along substantially.
    Mineral spirits has a viscosity just a bit lower than Kerosene so might be able to be used to improve the wicking of the heavier fuels, but would have to be careful to avoid getting a fuel that is too flammable (vapor flash issues). Looking at the MSDS, it looks like mineral spirits has a higher auto ignition temperature than Kerosene (Kerosene – 428 deg F, Mineral spirits – 689 deg, safety solvents like stoddard solvent is even higher near 1385 deg F)

    If the zombies made it impossible to buy kerosene but you had or could make biodiesel, it looks like you could make it work by, stripping out glycerin, warming the fuel first or perhaps setting up a small still operation to distill off the light ends of the fuel.

    More trouble than it is worth in normal times but as a small fraction blending agent to stretch a limited quantity of Kerosene or #1 diesel, you could apparently get by with mixing it in small percentages, especially in warmer weather if you are using it for cooking or light.

  7. Larry Ledwick says:

    For the same reasons (locally blizzards etc more an issue than earthquakes)

    I like to keep some sort of small stove in the car for emergencies. A collapsible stove like the Coleman is now my primary emergency stove but will be adding one of the small butane/propane stoves with 4 season fuel canister. On a long trip I will add a small bag of charcoal in the trunk and a box of HD aluminum foil.

    I always have a couple of the small pouches of mashed potato flakes in the car, and usually a few other foods as well, like a small bag of rice, and a small cooking pot set. For quick warm up a couple pouches of the Lipton dry chicken noodle soup and some tea bags or bags of instant hot chocolate, will get you by for a few days. Even just 300 – 400 calories a day makes a huge difference in your energy level under tough conditions.

    A store sealed bag of Oreo cookies is basically hiking rocket fuel. The mashed potato flakes don’t even need to be cooked they can be eaten a pinch at a time and re-hydrated in your mouth or fixed in cup with cold water and eaten cold if you are hungry.

  8. H.R. says:

    Our most likely disaster is a tornado. Tornadoes are highly localized. If they don’t kill you, then you are dealing with a house and maybe a neighborhood that’s pretty much unlivable.

    If you’re rural, you can buy or rent a trailer for your property while rebuilding. If you are in the ‘burbs or a town, then it’s hotel/motel living or a rental place.

    Our second most likely disaster is a blizzard which may or may not cause a power outage. The nice thing about Winter power outages is that you don’t have to worry about refrigeration. You just box up your food and set it in the garage to protect it from critters, No garage? No problem. Just put it all in the trunk of your car.

    To cook, I have a natural gas grill hooked into our house supply line as well as a gas stove that can be lit with a match. We also have a fireplace.

    Since retirement, I’m not concerned about getting caught out and about. We don’t have to leave the house when bad weather is headed our way.

    We do have to worry about keeping the house warm enough the keep the water lines from freezing. Frozen water lines are a big problem; no water, and then when the house gets power again, any lines that froze and burst can cause major damage to walls and floors when the water flows again. You keep the faucets open at a trickle and they generally won’t freeze up if you can keep the house above freezing. Worst case, you shut off the main and drain the lines, but then you have no water.

    We made it through a 5-day Winter storm power outage a few years back. The cold and frozen food went into the garage; no problem. We cooked on the stove and kept the house warm enough with the fireplace, but we were slowly losing ground against keeping the house from freezing. I’ll never know for sure, but I suspect we only had 2 or 3 or maybe 4 days more before the house was frozen up.

    I need to look into getting 2-3 heaters, one for each floor, because I don’t think I could keep the house from freezing up if a power outage lasted two weeks.

    OTOH, we’re now Wintering in Florida, so really all we have to do in a blizzard-caused power outage is deal with the insurance company when we get back ;o)

    Actually, we have neighbors who would come over and shut off the main water line and drain the house water lines for us. That takes about a 1/2 hour.

  9. E.M.Smith says:

    Dad, being from Iowa, taught me about setting a faucet on dribble to avoid a freeze (one winter when it hit 19 F in my old home town), but my car prep for “caught in a blizzard” is primative at best. I have spent one LOOOOONG night in the car, alone, stuck in a blizzard.

    Lesson learned? Use chain tensioners or roll forward a few feet and get back out to tighten the chains… instead I put them on fast, and loose, and one came off “somewhere” in the first 20 feet. Trying to find a chain in the snow in a blizzard with cars going by when you have already been cold from putting them on… doesn’t work very well. I’m now an expert with chains thanks to skiing trips.

    What I need more of is insulated clothes for long duration. Just don’t have things like long Johns and a good hat. I have skiing gear, a London Fog coat, and some big insulated rubber boots. Sort of good enough. Maybe.

    Then the other bit is zero experience camping in snow or below. In a car failure in frozen, I’m making it up as I go along, or dependent on the cell phone and rescue. Going on a week long fast in a California summer is a minor annoyance. Doing it in a Colorado winter without heat can be lethal. Walking 100 miles in a California spring is a recreational activity. Doing it in Iowa winter is impossible without gear, training, food, fuel, and conditioning.

    This matters as I need to prepare for driving Florida to Chicago and back, sometimes in winter… I did one trip, California to Chicago, in a very mild winter… even then the cold was impressive when gassing up the car. 5 minutes in it and I was ready for the heater again.

    The good thing is I know my limitations. And bought a Subaru ;-)

    The bad thing is I still need to fit it out (has Bridgstone MS tires, but not full on winter tires nor chains for it, so light snow only at this point) and my car kit is California / Florida biased. Light space blanket, no woolies, cook stove, no hand warmer or space heater, 12 oz. fuel, not 2 gsllons, tea bags and bouillon cubes, not box of granola bars, oatmeal packets and jerky.

    So sone work required…

    On Biodiesel:

    Properly made biodiesel has no glycerine left in it. The phases separate when you make it. (Mix 80% fat or oil with 19% methanol and 1% lye as a catalyst, warm to about 80 F And mix. Let stand to separate. Lye on bottom, then IIRC the glycerine layer, then the biodiesel layer. I’ve done it in a mason jar…

    Big issue in cold is solidification of some bits making flakes of waxy solid that plugs filters. Set a jar in the freezer to remove that fraction…

    To run straight biodiesel in winter takes added heat when below freezing. Fuel line warmers, fuel filter heaters.

    You can cut it with kerosene or gasoline (in old Bosch type systems, not computerized ones), and make it work. Heck, I ran a gallon of Crisco Shortening mixed with kerosene as a test case (damnded hard to get it mixed… not eaten Crisco since…)

    So how to generalize that to lamps and stoves? I’d look to traditional vegetable oil lamps, not kerosene, as my model. For stoves, the ones for 3rd world #2 Diesel ought to work. Big heavy gas generator with extra heating and easy cleaning.

    Basic problem is that you have up to a 22 long carbon chain, often unsaturated, with a methanol,or ethanol on the end, vs, a 10 to 12 carbon nice straight chain hydrocarbon (kerosene) or 14 to 16 for Diesel. Much harder to vaporize, prevent coking, and oxidize cleanly without making side products.

    IF you were to make your own from a saturated short chain fat like coconut oil, it would work much better. Soybean not so much… long chain poly unsaturated is not your friend.

    From blending experiments in cars, I’d guess you could easily use a 10% blend in Diesel or up to 30% in kerosene, with only modest wick coking clogging issues. Perhaps more with coconut base.

    Frankly, I’d rather use unleaded gasoline…. Running regular Diesel in an MSR stove designed as the most heavy fuel capable, was an exercise in bad smells, HEAVY sooting, hard lighting, and frequent stove cleaning and maintenance. I’d only do it now if no other choice existed. Now make the fuel even harder to light, more prone to coking and polymerizing, and more viscous with higher boiling point? Ah, no thanks…

    As an experimental investigation? Sure, go for it. As a cooking fuel? Pour it on some cardboard and light the cardboard…

  10. H.R. says:

    @E.M. – For cold weather going cross-country, get a fleece or down vest. They really help maintain core body heat, even if you only have a medium or light coat on.

    They are one of my key pieces when layering for the cold. I prefer the fleece vests because they are thinner and don’t add bulk to layers.

    You’re in luck, maybe. You’ll be in Florida somewhere February-ish, and the stores should be clearancing cold weather stuff. You might be able to get one very cheap. Heck! Dig around in the closets. You might already have one.

  11. Larry Ledwick says:

    My winter car kit is a direct result of getting snowed in during a raging blizzard in Rock Springs Wyoming once and various similar almost stranded events here near home, plus my experience doing mountain search and rescue and having to travel no matter what the weather was doing.

    Around late September and no later than Halloween a sleeping bag goes in the car and stays there all winter. I also have a small polyester fleece blanket that I keep on the passenger seat that you can toss over your lap or cover if you lay back the seat for a road side nap.

    I also have a small food pack consisting of one of those small igloo coolers that look like giant lunch box. It has some of the instant mashed potato flakes pouches, some Lipton dry chicken noodle soup mix, an unopened package of Oreo cookies or a box of ginger snaps, and usually 2 – 4 cans of single serving pork and beans and a few other random things like a small disposable lighter. I also have a large water bottle, either a 2 liter coke bottle filled with water or lately one of the heavy gallon juice jugs that have a handle on them, so I always have at least a couple liters of safe water in the car.

    The small tootsie rolls keep very well if placed in a small mason jar so they don’t dry out, although I prefer a hard candy. A few feet of HD aluminum foil a fork and spoon (knife I always have on me) and a small cookset. You want something that would work well to melt snow, (metal, large opening and covered, so small kits like this are preferred:

    For heat a large candle can raise the temperature of a small shelter by several degrees (like a snow cave) in a car not so much. One of the small stoves we have been discussing would be far far better to have in a car.

    I have an LED flashlight that charges with its own solar cell (which I can place on the dash board if there is good light), or it also has a hand crank dynamo for keeping it charged.

    For winter cloths in the car. I always have a set of new leather gloves stuffed in the drivers side door pocket, in the winter I have a spare set of warm fleece or ski gloves and a good stocking cap, in bad weather this is often one of the balaclava styles.
    I also have a military duffel bag which I keep serious winter cloths in that gets tossed in the car about the time the sleeping bag goes in. It

    It includes a spare pair of heavy boot socks, some gators (keep snow out of your shoes), a warm parka, and a couple thin plastic bags like gallon sized twist tie bags or grocery bags. In really cold weather can be put the plastic bags on under your socks to provide vapor barriers. This keeps the socks dry and keeps your feet much warmer. I also have a couple trash bags, which you if stranded in the car, you can put your feet inside one of them and stuff it with anything that has bulk to provide extra insulation for your feet, or if you have to hike out, cut a hole in it and it makes a super cheap emergency rain parka or wind breaker.

    I also include a cheap pair of insulated snow pants – the type that opens the full length of the pants leg so you can get into them even when seated in a car without pulling off your shoes and boots.

    I also keep two shovels and an ax in the car, along with shovels.

    One GI style folding shovel (digging in hard dirt or breaking serious ice)

    In snow season a small square point (metal) shovel with D style handle. The grain shovel styles are terrific for moving lots of deep snow. (beware plastic shovels in really cold weather they break)

    The ax is a small Estwing 3/4 ax

    With this stuff I can survive just about any where for a couple weeks if need be.

  12. E.M.Smith says:

    Interesting observation:

    Despite the GasOne dual fuel being a superior stove with built in igniter, I’m using the single burner screw on the top of the fuel bottle stove more.


    Fits on a much smaller space on my limited counters. Near zero set up time.

    The GasOne is better for a bigger cooking event where the set up time and space are amortized over more use. A big dinner or canning stuff. The single burner cheapo is better for grab and go making coffee, tea, or one bowl of oats. I do more of the one small things.

    The hose and external canister, both on the GasOne and on the Lixada with a hose, give operational flexibility with alternate fuel types, canisters, or placement, but come with complexity, set up time, and clutter.

    In general, I prefere the more compact “stove on top of tank” stoves for “grab and heat” things like coffee or a ramen cup. Other than fuel cost / availability: I like the Esbit / Trangia type alcohol stoves most, then the camping gas iso-butane stoves, followed by single burner integrated propane, then the “hairspray” can ones, then the “propane on a hose”, and ending with the heavy fuel burners. Gasoline, kerosene, Diesel… in that order.. mostly due to smell, soot, and ignition issues for kerosene and Diesel.

    Out in the woods in a car, my preference is for the Coleman dual fuel series or propane. Both heavy, but solid performing and reliable cooking for a group. Smell from gasoline not an issue. But as soon as I have to carry it, I’m back to alcohol or camping gaz light weight stoves.

    Honorable mention as a backyard cooker goes to the large wick based kerosene stove.
    It lights easy and works very well. BUT if you tip it, kerosene spills out. Not a stove for transporting around. Post quake, I’d be very happy with it, a kerosene lamp, and a 5 gallon can of fuel stored for a decade. Which is what I have on the back patio… though down to about 2 gallons left in the jug now. With the oven topper it makes nice bread :-)

    So the GasOne on propane will be my goto stove for canning, and making meals with multiple cooked dishes and long cooking times, but others are for making coffee and a ramen cup.

  13. E.M.Smith says:

    Reading over the cold gear advice. Looks like my regular road trip kit plus some of my ski gear. Then I’m short on dry foods, pastics, and shovels / axe (though I carry a machete…)

    OK, I think I can make a good start based on that.

  14. cdquarles says:

    @ Larry,
    Locally, K1 is making a comeback. The local oil jobber sells it for $3.559 a gallon, so $35.56 for 10 gallons. 100% gasoline is about the same price. E10 and E85 are nearly the same price now. In the past, E85 was ‘cheaper’ significantly. This winter, E10 is running about 50 cents a gallon more than it did last year.

  15. cdquarles says:

    Catch with most animal fats is that they are longer chains than diesel or kerosene, so you’ll have to crack them after getting the glycerol out. Straight animal fats have unsaturated fatty acids and aromatics, like cholesterol in them, too.

  16. E.M.Smith says:

    The local Rotten Robbie gas srations often have K1 at about $5+ a gallon off road only. Used to be about 50 ¢ a gallon more than Diesel, then the State got involved. Why? Because adding 20% to #2 Diesel meant you could drive to skiing and still start the next morning. Rather than blow off what was maybe 30 ¢ a gallon tax x at most 1000 gallons in the whole area they went jihadi on “enforcement” in various ways, screwing up the fuel, the pumps (1 foot hoses for a while, couldn’t even properly fill a fuel can), the vendors, and inevitably the price followed. Allowing the option of just paying the road tax never occurred to them… Several stations just stopped having it.

    What kind of idiot thinks Diesel car owners pay MORE for K1 to avoid the road fax? A State Employee…

    FWIW, many small airports carry jet fuel that’s pretty much kerosene. Even with airport tax, less than in the cans… Just tell them you are making a jet powered model ;-)

  17. Larry Ledwick says:

    Useless trivia note on stoves, the 100 gram butane-propane cylinders fit perfectly inside the screw top 16 oz Ziplock storage containers. NIce space saver and protector for the fuel cylinders in the back pack.

    You have to put them in the container upside down due to the tape in the ziplock containers but that is no big deal.

  18. E.M.Smith says:

    Nice to know. My emergency bag (car) has it inside a Sierra Club Cup, but it is a poor fit. It is accompanied by the smallest lightest gas stove I’ve ever found. 25 grams of titanium.

    I have a tablet stove that’s 11 grams of titanium. Basically three thin legs and a tablet stand.

    Yeah, two stoves in 37 grams (allowing a bit for the cloth bag :-) plus fuel. Call it about 200 grams total. IF I’m hiking from God Only Knows Where after God Only Knows what, I want a very light pack. The big alcohol or propane stove can stay in the car trunk…

    Good for heating metal cups and small billies, frying pans not so much 8-)

    At 3 ounces, 85 grams, in steel, this one would likely work better in any wind

    As it has sort of a built in wind screen design. $9.40

  19. Larry Ledwick says:

    The screw top Ziplock container also makes a dandy bowl to eat cereal out of or to re-hydrate the mashed potato flakes or similar foods. I used one for my breakfast cereal when out at bonneville.
    Just put the mashed potato flakes in add 2x the same volume of hot water and let it sit for a while, salt pepper etc. and ready to eat.

    The shelf stable pouch foods are also good back packing fodder, like the 2.6 oz tuna pouches or quick heat and eat pouch foods, that have been sterilized when manufactured so they keep on the shelf almost as good as canned foods.

  20. E.M.Smith says:

    Costco is selling a box of mashed potato flake pouches for something like $10. Makes decent mashed potatoes too. Honest Earth Creamy Mash. 14 x 8 oz.

    Bought one to try, then another for storage after I tried it :-)

    I’ll likely toss the open box and a flat of ramen cups ( 12 for under $4 at Smart & Fibal) in the car with a flat of water as the basic cold weather food kit… 2 dozen small meals ought to be enough for a while…

  21. Larry Ledwick says:

    When you are cold to the bone almost anything tastes good, but that sounds like a good choice. Several of the folks at work keep a few of the Ramen cups in their desks as rations for when the servers go sideways and it becomes an all hands make it work party.

    I like the mini single serving pork and bean cups along with the Lipton soup pouches. We have the hot chocolate pouches provided by the company and I have started buying a box or two of them and keeping some in the cupboard and a couple in the car food stash.

    I also keep a couple soup can size cans of chili of some sort also.

  22. E.M.Smith says:

    I used a lot of those cocoa pouches over the years…

    I would put a can of Bean And Bacon soup and / or a can of Split Pea in my bag. Many a “dinner” during a crisis was a “bowl” of legume soup and old crackers served in a big coffee cup. I have a miniature hot pot of a kind no longer made. Called a “hot shot” IIRC. It will boil water, but if the temp goes over boiling, cuts power to warming.

    Has a built in the lids bowl / cup and drip coffee filter, and containers for sugar, creamer and coffee.

    As an extreme test once I used it to heat canned ravioli. Did GREAT. (Another of my “regular” meals from a can…). So pretty much any canned food, it would heat.

    A few years back I finally took apart my “mini kitchen in a leather day bag”. Nobody ever questioned the guy who was on the road showing up to work with his leather carry on… Then at about midnight when everyone else was home and I was still on the hook, I’d go to the break room and make dinner…

    I didn’t pack candy as there was almost always a vending machine somewhere. And water was always available.

    Canned chili a few times too. And stew.

    Ah the glorious life of a Computer Consultant… ;-)

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